Desenvolvimento de cosméticos a partir de subprodutos de Passiflora edulis.

Abstract

The cosmetics industry is recognized as an important segment in the global economy. In the first half of 2023, the sector experienced an 18.5% growth compared to the same period in 2022, with hair care products being the second fastest-growing category. In the post-pandemic period, consumers have demonstrated an increased inclination toward eliminating “undesirable” ingredients from their personal care routines, favoring brands that prioritize environmental sustainability. Consequently, there is a growing demand for novel technologies and methodologies aimed at minimizing environmental impact. This study aims to develop innovative solid hair care formulations derived from Passiflora edulis (yellow passion fruit), with a focus on valorizing the byproducts of its peel and seeds. Pectin was extracted from the passion fruit peel using an acid-based extraction process. To systematically optimize the number of trials and minimize material usage, a Central Composite Rotational Design (CCRD) was employed, targeting four independent variables: residue concentration, temperature, pH, and rotation speed, resulting in 28 experimental trials. Response surface analysis revealed that pH was the most significant variable, with higher pectin yields observed in more acidic conditions. The process optimization yielded a 50% increase in pectin recovery, achieving extraction efficiencies of 10-15%, validating the model. Formulations incorporating pectin derived from Passiflora edulis were compared with a control formulation (FXC) containing cornstarch and a formulation shampoo with commercial pectin (FXPC). Evaluations of stability, texture profile (hardness, cohesiveness, and fracturability), and liquid content were conducted. The results indicated that the formulations containing Passiflora edulis pectin exhibited favorable stability, optimal pH, and desirable textural properties, demonstrating the potential of this sustainable ingredient for the cosmetic industry.