Resumo:
Passiflora cincinnata (P. cincinnata) is a native species known as "wild passion fruit" and "Caatinga passion fruit." Its chemical composition includes phenolic compounds, such as flavonoids, which attract interest from cosmetology as potential antioxidant agents. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of climatic variation on chemical composition and in vitro antioxidant activity, as well as to develop a cosmetic nanoemulsion. From the leaves of P. cincinnata collected over a year, 12 aqueous extracts were obtained and analyzed by HPLC/MS. A molecular network was generated using the Global Natural Product Social Molecular Networking (GNPS) platform. The antioxidant activity of the 12 extracts was assessed through various tests targeting different stages of the oxidative cascade. For formulation, a 2² factorial design was conducted with a central compound varying the concentration of surfactants and oily phases. Formulations were obtained via spontaneous emulsification with magnetic stirring and analyzed for macroscopic aspects 24 hours post-preparation, followed by stability studies. The chemical composition of P. cincinnata revealed C-glycosylated and O-glycosylated flavonoids. Seasonality did not influence metabolite variation, and the extracts exhibited antioxidant activity in nearly all tests, showing no statistical difference between dry and rainy periods. Stable formulations were augmented with 0.1% of the obtained extract and reassessed for preliminary and accelerated stability studies. The nanoemulsions showed droplet sizes between 95 and 170 nm, zeta potential between |19| and |38|, and PDI between 0.11 and 0.47, achieving a stable formulation after stability studies, indicating its potential applicability as a new anti-aging cosmetic.
